Jun 112010
 

We said goodbye to London today and, being fearful of driving on the left side of the road in London, took a taxi to Heathrow airport to pick up a rental car.

From there it was a short 10 mile drive to our first stop: Windsor Castle. Or it should have been a short 10 mile drive; our GPS was configured to show north-always-up rather than what I’m used to, which is forward-always-up. By the time that confusion was cleared up I had driven another 10 miles out of our way, and in an effort to not insult those in cars near us, spoke ever so eloquently in what I’m told is French.

On to Windsor! The Queen was not in residence this weekend – I suppose she was wagering on the ponies at Ascot – so we took the audio tour instead.

Windsor Castle Quadrangle

The Windsor Castle Quadrangle


Kevin and Sarah

Kevin and Sarah in front of the quadrangle.


Kevin at Eric at Windsor Castle

Kevin at Eric at Windsor Castle


The next stop was in Runnymede, where the original Magna Carta was signed by King John of England in 1215. The document is considered the founding document of constitutional law, and the American Bar Association has erected a monument on the site to commemorate it.
Runnymede

Kevin and Eric at the ABA's commemorative monument at Runnymede


On top of the hill overlooking Runnymede is the Royal Air Forces Memorial, where 20,000 members of the Commonwealth Air Forces are remembered. These are airmen who lost their lives over the British Isles and Europe in WWII and have no known graves. We stopped there to see the listing of Sarah’s first cousin once removed, Laurence E. Charnaud, who was shot down over the North Sea.
Air Forces Memorial, Runnymede

Air Forces Memorial, Runnymede


Flying Officer L.E. Charnaud

Flying Officer L.E. Charnaud


An hour and a half later we arrived at our hotel in Salisbury. Tomorrow we’ll tour locally.
Salisbury Hill

The view from atop a hill in Salisbury, though likely not the one Phil Collins sang about.

Jun 142010
 

Our last full day in England, but it’s a very unique one. We scheduled a “Hadrian’s Wall Safari”. Hadrian’s Wall was built starting in 122 AD under Roman Emperor Hadrian. It stretched for 80 miles from the east to the west coasts of Britain, and was the northernmost border of the Roman Empire – to the north: barbarians. Our tour guide, Gary, picked us up in his Range Rover (thus the ‘safari’) around 10am.

Tour Bus

Gary's Range Rover, our tour bus for the day

There were many stops along the way, most of which started with a short hike and then a description from Gary about what we were looking at. He did a fantastic job layering the information over the course of the day so that we were building knowledge and understanding about the Roman Empire and early British history, rather than just reading about a particular site.

Hadrian's Wall

A relatively intact portion of the wall. Gary's ready to charge up the hill.

At this stop, for example, he explained why the wall was here and not further north or south. But to do so, we had to be at the top of the hill…

Charging the hill

Charging up the hill

History Lesson

Gary gives a combination history and geology lesson

It turns out there is a giant fault line here, and the minerals and other assets that an empire might want are primarily to the south. To the north the land is less valuable and not worth the cost of beating down the barbarians.

Fault lines and walls also make for great photo ops.

Photo op

Photo Op Atop the Crop

Every Roman mile (1,000 paces) along the 80 mile wall was a Mile Castle that acted as a toll gate between the Roman Empire and traders to the north. Between each Mile Castle were two towers, stationing guards every 330 paces for the width of Britain. Below is the foundation of a Mile Castle.

Mile castle

Remains of a Mile Castle

A century before Hadrian built his wall, the Romans had established forts throughout the region. Vindolanda was started around 85AD and was occupied for about 400 years. Over that time it was rebuilt on top of itself many times. There is an extensive excavation going on there now with a fantastic museum. Most significantly, they uncovered wood writing tablets that are still legible, having been protected for almost 2000 years by mud.

Vindolanda

Vindolanda excavation - the elevated floor was heated by hot water running through the channels

Crag Lough was another stop along the way. It’s close to Once Brewed, next to Twice Brewed. Twice Brewed was named for the strong ale that the Roman soldiers demanded. Once Brewed was named more recently by the founder of a youth hostel that thought that tea as a better drink to offer.

Crag Lough

Crag Lough (that's the lake in the background); Hadrian's Wall runs along the top of the ridge

There is a hiking trail that follows the wall across the country. Most of the wall is not visible now, either because it’s still buried or because the stones were recycled over the years to become smaller walls or farmhouses.

Ladder over Hadrian's Wall

A ladder for hikers to climb over the wall

Lanercost Priory was built by Henry II in the late 1100’s, mostly from stone from Hadrian’s Wall.

Lanercost Priory Door

Lanercost Priory Door

A long, educational and entertaining day!

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