On the road – Costa Rica 2008

Coffee Lesson on the Road

Dec 29 Tagged with: coffee, flora, On the road

Dec 292008

Coffee Plantations

The tour officially kicked off this morning with our guide, Paul, and bus driver, Marcos.

Today’s primary adventure was a trip to the Poas Volcano. The hour long bus ride wound across the valley through three different cities, then up the volcano to 8800 feet, about a mile above the valley floor. Along the way we passed through miles and miles of coffee plantations. We learned a lot about this beautiful crop. For example:

All coffee grown in Costa Rica for export must be Arabica.
In the ‘30’s (?) the government gave away land and coffee plants to families that wanted to start a farm. The goal was to create a major coffee industry, but to have it be owned by many citizens, not by a few large landholders or companies.
The best coffee is grown between 4000 and 6500 feet elevation and it loves volcanic soil, making these slopes of Costa Rica ideal for the crop.
Costa Rica grades their coffee in three levels. Level 1 is the finest and commands the highest price. Level 3 is not allowed to be exported, and is generally what the Costa Rican population drinks. Level 2 is also exported, but is a lower grade than level 1. Much of Level 2 goes to Columbia and Brazil, where it is mixed with their lower grade beans to bring the overall quality up, and thus the price.

Two Toed Sloth

Dec 29 Tagged with: fauna, On the road, sloth

Dec 292008

Heading back down the mountain there was a crowd of people standing in the road staring up into a tree – a Costa Rican slothjam (kind of like a bearjam in Yellowstone). The green you see in her fur is moss – yes, they’re that slow.

Paul taught us a lot about sloth-life, including that the mating ritual involves a lot of napping, and they can have 150 different species of insects living in their coats.

Two Toed Sloth

Me and My Bus

Dec 30 Tagged with: bus, Carl, family, On the road

Dec 302008

Outside the Aerial Tram

Happy New Year!

Jan 01 Tagged with: beach, Carl, Eric, food, Kevin, On the road, Paul, volcano

Jan 012009

I got up at 5:20 this morning to take a picture of the sun rising over the Caribbean Sea on the first day of the new year. Sunrises aren’t as dramatic as sunsets, especially when the sky is completely clouded over. Everything gradually got brighter, but there was no way to see that the sun came over the horizon at 5:50am.

Sunrise on New Year's Morning, Tortuguera, Costa Rica

Sunrise, New Year’s Morning

As I was setting up my camera, another gentleman walked out onto the beach. We smiled at each other and he headed down the beach. Then he stopped, turned around and walked up to me with a big smile and his hand outstretched. We shook hands and he said "I wish you a very happy new year," in a wonderful Northern European accent. I wished him the same, and he turned and walked down the beach.

There was something really moving about the encounter – it was so genuine and sincere on both our parts, standing on this remote beach, that was so different from the typical “Happy New Year” greetings we toss about.

Around 6:30 I got the rest of the family up so we could pack up to continue our journey. The boat left the dock at 8am, and we were looking forward to the hour long boat ride through the river and canals back to the bus. Unfortunately, the sky opened up again dumping enough rain to cause the captain to stop the boat and roll down the plastic window sides. If you’ve ever tried to look though the back window of a convertible you know the kind of view we now had. An hour of humming engine and the occasional banking turn, while blurry trees slide by outside the window.

Paul, our tour guide, on the boat leaving Tortuguero. It’s New Year’s day, he doesn’t normally look like this! (Sorry Paul!)

The rest of the day was primarily a day of travel to get halfway across Costa Rica to our next stop in Fortuna. The bus ride was broken up with two stops – one for lunch at the same place we ate a couple days ago (delicious! No problem having a repeat), and one at a 300 foot suspension bridge over a river. The second was kind of a novelty stop that was fun to do but mostly broke the trip into segments so we could stretch our legs.

Lunch

On the suspension bridge in the Selva Verde Rainforest Reserve.

Kevin and Eric on the far side of the bridge.

We arrived at the beautiful Lomas de Volcan hotel in Fortuna around 4pm. We traveled about 150 miles today by boat and bus, over about 5 hours of travel time.

Finally there!

The view out the back door of our cottage. We’re looking right at Arenal Volcano, which can’t be seen at the moment due to the clouds.

And here’s two shots of the volcano from right outside our room. These were actually taken the next day, but the flow works better if I put them here. These shots were taken about 20 minutes apart – the view of the cone was always changing. I wish I had set up a time-lapse series.

7:03am

7:24am

Zarcero

Jan 03 Tagged with: flora, On the road

Jan 032009

Today was another day of mostly travel, we went from Fortuna to Puntarenas on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. The normal route that the tour uses wasn’t available because of a “problem with the bridge,” so we had to take a longer way around. We had a few stops along the way, the first at 9:30 in the town of Zarcero to stretch our legs after an hour and a half drive. Zarcero is famous for the topiaries in the park, which were nice but didn’t really bowl me over.

Much better was getting an ice cream fix at 9:45am.

Topiaries

Sarchi

Jan 05 Tagged with: bus, Marcos, On the road, paint, Sarchi, tour

Jan 052009

Our last full day in Costa Rica, and the main agenda item is to get back to San Jose to fly out tomorrow. We had three stops along the way – the first was in a town whose name I missed, where we walked around the plaza, visited the church, and most importantly had ice cream. Kevin and I have agreed that a proper diet should include ice cream three hours after breakfast every day if possible.

Our turn in the front seat today. Much more thrilling than I thought – this bus is gigantic.

Our lunch stop was in the town of Sarchi, which is famous for their painted oxcarts and painted everything else. We watched some of the local artists painting souvenirs.

Cans of paint.

Paint pots.

Palette detail.

Artist’s drawers.

Britt Coffee, and Back to San Jose

Jan 05 Tagged with: coffee, hotel, On the road, San Jose

Jan 052009

The final stop was a tour of the Britt coffee plant, which was very entertaining. They have a small coffee plant field that you walk though with two guides who basically do a comedy routine while educating you about the plants, the beans and the process from fruit to roasted bean. The last part of the tour is in a small theater where they reenact coffee’s history in a campy and humorous play. Lots of fun, but I liked the coffee we bought in Fortuna much better.

Britt coffee plant.

San Jose traffic.

San Jose rainbow.

Dinner tonight was the group’s last time together, so it was a more formal meal at the top of the hotel we stayed at. The Holiday Inn is the second tallest building in San Jose, so the view from the 17th floor after dark was wonderful.